DAILY SALT

 "Please Pass the Salt"

 
 
  Home to India's second largest salt-mines, the small coastal town of Marakkanam has a shoreline that lies beneath the sea's restless backwaters. Here, the chemical compound called sodium chloride is harvested through the process of evaporation. Ideal conditions for this natural saltmaking under the sun include high temperatures and good winds. Rain occasionally plays spoilsport, mixing with the brine and resulting in a recipe gone wrong. The shiny heaped mounds of salt however hide a sad, secret story—the story of the salt-makers. 

  Men and women work in scorching heat and absolutely without any shelter. The brine is boiling hot, and all that people have with them are rudimentary tools. Salt has an impossible stickiness that nobody ever gets used to. Skin problems have surfaced at some point in their lives. Sight fails the workers early, the white-hot glare of drying salt blinds their eyes. Nobody wears protective shades, they cannot afford them. After all, it is a seasonal job.

  This industry predominantly consists of Dalits—who essentially are allocated the low-paying, labour-intensive jobs of being loadmen and coolies. The traditional task of cleaning the salt-mines is given to them. Saltmines have to be emptied during summer showers. Salt that has not been harvested when it is due has to be thrown away. Men speak of the sting of overgrown salt-crystals, of a sharp pain that never leaves them for days.

  This is not the only pain that people here speak about. The loadmen carry several hundred bags of salt a week, each bag weighing a hundred kilos. To forget the ache and the cramps, to sleep at night, to be strong enough to report for the next day, these men drown themselves in arrack and alcohol. Early death follows endless drinking. The result, a population that clearly shows a shocking profusion of young widows.

  Auctioned by the Indian Government to private contractors, men working in these open air salt mines are paid a daily wage of Rs.170. Women take home an inferior wage of Rs. 120. Absence of a strong trade union lobby and the commercialism of employers have prevented workers from even achieving their demand for a decent wage. Gandhi epitomized the struggle for salt making it symbolically important in a freedom movement that defied imperialism. But in his nation, those who season our lives with salt, lack a tasteful existence.

Text: Meena Kandasamy

Daily Salt

  • Worker cleaning the sludge in a saltmine. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • Rains make the brine unusable, so the mixture has to be emptied out manually, Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • Workers pushing the boiling waters out as a cleaning measure. Working under the sun is dizzying, but what adds to the woe is the heat of the brine. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • Workers inspecting the bunds. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • Workers walk towards another saltmine. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • Tools at rest, the sun gets to work. It is evaporation time. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • A woman worker filling baskets with the harvested sand. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • salt of the earth: under the scorching sun, the rock salt appears all the more abrasive. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • A woman labourer filling her second salt-basket. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • Women at work. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • The white-hot glare of the salt ruins eyesight and most workers complain of partial blindness. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • Women form a sizeable chunk of the workforce. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • Workers pouring the salt-crystals into bags. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • Men packing salt into jute bags. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • Women labourers carrying salt in cane-baskets to and fro from the packing area. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • Co-workers assist a coolie manually carry his load of salt. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • A young labourer lifts a sack of salt on his back. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • Bundled away, the salt is taken to the factories. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • Salt workers. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • Salt workers. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • Salt worker. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • Salt. Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
  • Marakkanam, Tamil Nadu. 2010. Copyright N.Jaisingh/Trikaya Photos.
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